You finally answered the ad, handed over 500 precious Markkas to the guy by the woodpile, and now you’re staring at your purchase.
It’s not a car.
It’s a skeletal frame lying in the snow—a collection of empty bolt holes and silent promises.
In My Winter Car, building the Corris Rivett isn’t a side activity or an optional challenge. It is the game. Every success, every job, every rally attempt depends on how well you assemble this machine from the ground up. Miss a bolt, forget a fluid, or rush the process, and the Finnish winter will remind you why patience matters.
This guide is your complete blueprint. We’ll walk through every stage of the build—from tracking down the frame to assembling the engine, sourcing parts efficiently, and firing up a car that actually survives icy backroads. Whether this is your first build or your fifth restart, this guide is designed to save you time, money, and frustration.
Let’s turn that frozen heap of potential into a winter-beating rally machine.
Phase 1: The Hunt – Acquiring Your Project
Before you can build anything, you need to find the car and bring it home. This is your first real test of patience and attention to detail.
Get the Number
Your journey starts at the PSK bulletin board.
Find and write down the phone number 08609553 in your in-game notepad (N key).
Make the Call (The Right Way)
Call the number from your home phone.
Here’s the critical detail most guides miss:
Do not hang up first.
Let the man—Reijo—finish talking and end the call himself. If you hang up early, the map marker for the car’s location will not appear, and you’ll be stuck wondering what went wrong.
The “Car” & Transport
At the marked location, you’ll find a bare chassis frame. This is your Corris Rivett.
To move it, you have two options:
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The Official Way:
Use the Kekmet tractor. Slow, stable, and designed for hauling awkward loads. -
The Practical Way:
Carefully tow it with your Sorbett or the Gifu truck.
The frame will drag and take minor damage, but it’s often faster.
Get it back to a safe area near your home garage. This is where your long-term project begins.
Phase 2: The Puzzle – Sourcing Every Part
You now own a three-dimensional puzzle with dozens of missing pieces. Understanding where parts come from is 90% of the challenge.
Parts Sources Breakdown
| Source | What You Find There | How It Works & Key Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Fleetari’s Repair Shop | High-performance engine parts (racing carburetor, sport camshaft, pistons, crankshaft) and electrical components (battery, spark plugs, alternator) | Buy directly with cash. Used parts are cheaper but may fail. New parts cost more but are reliable. Essential for final tuning. |
| Classifieds Magazine (PSK) | Most of the car: body panels, windows, standard engine parts, brakes, suspension, and tools | 1. Buy the magazine at PSK |
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Call ad numbers from home
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Wait 2 in-game days
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Pay and collect at PSK counter |
| AMIS Catalog | Core mechanical systems: exhaust, springs, shocks, radiator, fuel tank, flywheel, clutch | Same call-and-wait system. Think of this as your heavy-duty supplier. |
⚠️ Critical Warning – Read This Carefully
The engine block and cylinder head are irreplaceable.
If you destroy them—by running without oil, overheating, or catastrophic over-revving—you cannot buy new ones. Your only options are:
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Finding another junker car
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Restarting your save
Treat these components with extreme care.
Phase 3: The Assembly – A Logical Build Order
Do not assemble parts randomly. Installing things out of order wastes time and causes unnecessary disassembly.
Recommended Build Sequence
1. Chassis & Suspension
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Install front and rear suspension arms
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Add springs and shock absorbers
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Get the frame standing on its own
2. Build the Engine on the Bench
Assemble the engine outside the car:
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Crankshaft
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Pistons & connecting rods
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Camshaft
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Cylinder head
This is far easier on the garage floor than inside the chassis.
3. Mount Major Drivetrain
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Lower the assembled engine into the frame
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Attach the gearbox and clutch
4. Install Supporting Systems
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Radiator
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Fuel tank
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Exhaust
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All hoses and lines
5. Wire It Up
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Battery
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Alternator
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Spark plugs
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Wiring harness connections
6. Rolling Chassis
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Mount wheels and tires
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Winter or studded winter tires are mandatory
7. The Shell & Interior
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Body panels
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Doors and windows
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Driver’s seat
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Steering wheel
8. The Final Countdown
Fill every fluid:
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Engine oil
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Coolant
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Brake fluid
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Fuel
Miss one, and the engine won’t forgive you.
Phase 4: The Moment of Truth – First Start & Basic Tuning
This is where nerves peak.
Pre-Start Checklist
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Battery charged and connected
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Oil and coolant filled
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Choke pulled for cold start
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Fuel valve open
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Gearbox in neutral
Turn the key.
If everything is correct, the engine will sputter… then settle into a steady idle. Let it warm up fully before touching the throttle.
Unlocking Performance
A running Rivett is just the beginning.
For real power, return to Fleetari and invest in:
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Racing carburetor
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Sport camshaft
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High-performance fuel pump
These upgrades transform the car from a fragile survivor into a genuine rally contender.
From Builder to Driver
You’ve done it.
A pile of metal, phone calls, and invoices has become a living, breathing machine. That first successful drive—down an icy road, in a car you built bolt by bolt—is the defining moment of My Winter Car.
The Rivett is now your gateway to:
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Better jobs
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Longer trips
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Faster money
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And eventually, the rally
The journey from bare frame to tuned rally sled is long, expensive, and filled with setbacks. But every mechanic knows this truth:
The pain of mistakes fades the moment the engine roars to life.
Yours is roaring now.
What you break next is entirely up to you.
Final Pro-Tip
Patience is your most valuable tool.
Don’t dump all your money into racing parts before the car is reliable.
First, make it run.
Then, make it run well.
Finally, make it run fast.
Master each stage before moving to the next—and Finland’s winter won’t stand a chance.
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